11.29.2011

Gold by Harlan Goldstein – Hong Kong

Posted in: Food Reviews 1 Comment
gold_crop The Chubby Orangutan
Price
Five Dollars
Rating
Three Forks

When I first arrived in Hong Kong, I was invited by a group of people to have dinner at Gold. Having never heard of Chef Harlan Goldstein nor the restaurant at the time, I had no expectation. To my surprise, I had a very satisfying meal with foie gras and truffle pappardelle. But to be honest, anything with foie gras and truffle almost always tastes good to me, so I was determined to go back to try out other dishes. Since then I’ve been back a few more times, although I still like Gold and will definitely go back from time to time, overall I feel that some of the dishes are excellent, and some are just average.

Let’s begin with Foie Gras with Green Apple “Ice” and Black Figs Jus. This is absolutely delicious with great balance in flavors. The Canadian Sea Scallop Carpaccio however, is not my favorite on the menu, it is overwhelmingly raw for my taste buds. Obviously this is a raw dish to begin with, however when mixing the raw scallops with egg yolk, the rawness and coldness is so overpowering that I can hardly taste the white truffle dressing.

My favorite pasta dish remains to be the Truffle Parppadelle, so far one of the best I’ve had in Hong Kong. The Amazing Seafood Spinobellii Pasta and Lobster Spaghetti look great in the photo but is totally forgettable. I also tried the special pasta of the day with shrimp, edamame and uni(sea urchin). The taste of fresh uni is one of the great pleasures in life but this was not what I imagined. The dish was dominated by an intense, salty and cooked uni flavor. I had to abandon this dish after just a few bites. It was a bit too much.

The HG Burger is average because I am not a fan of overly seasoned burger meat. Burger meat should be simple, sprinkled with just salt and pepper and the meat quality should speak for itself, not blended with thyme, rosemary etc… I was later told by a Hong Kong restauranteur that for the Hong Kong and China clientele, the overly seasoned burger meat is more popular. Lastly the 12 oz Prime Beef Rib Eye cooked medium rare is delicious. I am not a highly carnivorous person, but my companion who is a big Peter Luger and Wolfgang fan, enjoyed it. The side dishes are hit and miss. The black truffle mash is quite pleasant, yet the creamy spinach is bland and watery.

Overall, I like Gold and will definitely return. They have a rather large selection of dishes and I still have more to try. It is a popular restaurant in town and reservation is highly recommended.

Gold: Level 2 LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong. Tel.: 852 2869 9986

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